Monday, 2 March 2020

A Personal Account of a Meditation Retreat (Wat Ram Poeng in Chiang Mai, Thailand)




Life pushes you in certain unusual, unpredictable, unspecified directions sometimes. I’m not exactly sure what convinced me to stand guard as Jonathan etched “tricks”, his infamous graffiti tag, onto the upstairs window of a South London bus when we were in our early teens, and with a stone on a stick which looked like an oversized concrete lollipop. Who knows what convinced me: probably Jonathan. I don’t even really know what possessed me to quit my job and travel in 2014. And when I did, why I ending up staying in Mexico for most of my trip, and spend a large part of that, instead of exploring the cenotes of Quintana Roo, stuck in a touristic cocktail bar places preposterous in-play bets on obscure, women’s volleyball games.

 I don’t even really know why I don’t like chocolate ice cream even though I like chocolate, or why I dribble when I sleep, and drool when I talk and just why there’s quite so much saliva in my mouth at any given moment. And I don’t know why I’m single. I can give proximate, causal descriptions of why I think I am: I don’t have many opportunities living in Korea; I’m terribly picky; potential spouses tend to keep chocolate ice cream in their freezers, but ultimately, fundamentally, when all is said and done, why are any of these things true? Why did things turn out quite like this? Ultimate explanations, when all is said and done, just fail you. You’re just left scratching your head, on the sofa staring at advertisements for chocolate ice cream thinking that “there is no getting behind a given fact”. The chocolate chips fall where they may and we’re all just left picking up the pieces.

And so 20 years after standing guard for Jonathan, I stood guard for Lord Buddha – metaphorically speaking - dressed from head to toe in loaned white clothing, in a monastery in Northern Thailand, walking slower than I thought possible, back and forwards over the same 5 metre-stretch of temple stone, over a period of up to 45 minutes at a time, and paying excruciatingly specific attention to my feet. White-cotton clad foreigners usually on an 11 or 26-day course, ‘novices’ (actually very experienced meditators) along with Thais on shorter stays, as well as shaved-headed nuns, and a sprinkling of monks circled the large stupor of Wat Ram Poeng, said to contain holy relics from notable leaders of bygone eras within its spiritual belly. Wat Ram Poeng, a traditional establishment, teaching a conservative interpretation within the Theravada school of Buddhism teaches 2 types of meditation to be followed by its guests.

First, there’s the walking meditation. ‘Walking’, in this context is a very generous term for the practice. Walking, a kind of purposeful stride to go from location A to place B is most often performed at a certain minimum speed. Slow walkers and dawdlers might frustrate more respectable walkers in an airport terminal or on a city street, but they’re usually operating at a certain speed which is qualifying of the name. The ‘walking’ meditation at Wat Ram Poeng, however, consists of moving no quicker than one can pay attention to the sensations under one’s foot, meaning that walking meditators often resemble a bad improv performer doing a slow-mo routine where they neglect to actually move anywhere at all.

 But there’s method to the madness: Considering most people’s attention span is spasmodic and ill-refined in the age of distraction when one does actually pay attention to something as seemingly as trivial as one’s foot, paying close attention, to all the sensations of temperature, pressure, and other somatosensory stimuli, can actually be rather pleasurable, addictive even. I found myself wanting more and more. It certainly makes sense that the appropriate speed for an activity aimed to tune-up attention- is close to nonmotile. And indeed, some of the more ‘advanced’ meditation practitioners on the course, the one’s very serious about the vow of silence and the refinement of their own attention, could often be seen moving so slowly that they became the perfect statue for the more adventurous tourist stumbling into the temple, camera in hand, with an air of devilish, gleeful befuddlement. In the race that is walking meditation, the winners always finish last.

walking meditators
I’d been interested in meditation for a while, have a couple of meditation apps on my phone and have taken a passing interest in its practical benefits and its lessons on the nature of consciousness. But there was obvious causation, no linear progression or signposting to be detected from anything that’d happened heretofore in the coil of my mortal existence. Not the bus, nor the travelling, not my occasional morning meditations stoked by personal existential crises. Nothing could have led me quite so directly to be staring at my own feet, to the morning prayers, the prostrating to Lord Buddha, the surreal night-time ceremonies. Everything just seemed to happen as it did, and keeps happening that way. It’s all deeply beautifully, chaotically, maddeningly bewitchingly inscrutable.

It’s therefore quite humbling to ponder that even with logically-deduced, well-thought-out and rational plan for one’s future, a healthy diet and a network of rich, meaningful relationships, there’s no way you can say whether or not you’re going to end up sailing the world in a rowboat, making a million dollars, or naked in a skip bellowing out a pitch-perfect rendition of "My Heart Will Go On" with a red workman’s cone on your head. It’s simultaneously exciting, liberating and terrifying. You’re not in control of anything, no matter how organised your sock drawer is.

Depending on the time of day, the stupa, which acted as a noteworthy centrepiece of the temple and looked like a large golden upside-down spinning top, would either resemble the grounds of a psychiatric ward (in the afternoon), with its patients seemingly frozen in time, attempting to make sense of their own existence, or a scene from a zombie apocalypse movie with the artificial light of the temple lights bouncing of the porcelain white of the living dead in the quadrant, or a group of demented patients failing to remember their home address and getting stuck in a hedge in the Borgesian vagueries of dusk.

The magnificent stupa

The days would start at 4.00 am with the ringing of a bell at a gradually quickening tempo which made me think that I was always late to the chanting beginning at 4.30 am in the library, despite usually arriving by 4.25 am. The ‘library’ was a library only in the sense that it had some books in bookcases around the sides, and in the sense that people were shuffling around staring at their own feet without actually reading, but not in the sense that it had a shrine, a large female Buddha statue with a Wheel of Dharma headdress, or a sleepy monk chanting the 8 Precepts. I’ve never seen such behaviour in a South London library except for the time a homeless gentleman took up tenure in the Fantasy books aisle in Penge library and made a sort-of shrine (more of a bed) to Terry Pratchet and Philip Pullman.






The monk in question’s name is Phra Ajahn Along, as in the sentence: “come Along now; stop talking and say your fucking prayers,” and this young lieutenant appeared to be second in command at Wat Ram Poeng. He is an austere, astringent man, a-comical man with a large shaven head and no eyebrows, providing an inflated sense of an actually quite slight stature. He looked like a monk version of those plastic childhood bobblehead toys with a tiny homuncular body and oversized head.


Phra Ajahn Along (taken from the Wat Ram Poeng Facebook page)

The teacher meetings took place daily, usually in the afternoons in ‘the teacher’s office’. The teacher’s office looks less like a teacher’s office than the library resembles a library. It looks less like the office a school teacher might use and more like an ubosot or any other large ordination hall for worship, with an ornamented, double-tiered mahogany roof, decorative golden finials, spiked stone columns outside on top of which mythological protectors sit on stone pillars, fortifying the holy inner chambers of the temple which contained a golden statue of Lord Buddha, flowers, and other decorative elements. The office and other temple buildings are also provided with a suitably lush backdrop: the Golden Rain Trees and Sacred Fig Trees cushioning the building’s outer walls would be able to prettify any postcard sold in the souvenir shops of Chiang Mai. Incidentally, the whole wat or temple complex is equally lavish. Elegant chedis (cone-shaped pagodas), resplendent bell-towers, imposing nagas (mythical snakes) running along balustrades, grandiose temple archways, large viharns (assembly halls) where monks chant in formidable private ceremonies. No doubt a veritable paradise for the silent contemplative, a hellish torture for the gregarious socialite, a place of curiosity for the off-piste traveller, and an intriguing mixture of all three for those participants, baffled enough by their own minds, to have signed up in the first place.



My photo doesn't quite do the teacher's office justice
Nagas outside of of the viharns (assembly halls)






And all of this immersed in the lushest of fauna and flora. During my time I saw a black-throated sunbird inserting its curved beaks into the waxy dark red flesh of a closed Roselle flower, used for sweet juice drinks and tea by the locals. I saw wood pigeons shoot off of the temple spires and onto the large, fibrous leaves of the ‘Giant Elephant Ear’ plant. I saw monks with coarse bamboo brushes tidy the grounds of a huge Bodhi tree stood proudly at the rear of the temple, wrapped in holy cloth and adorned with relics and, of course, a golden Buddha statue at its very foundation. And then there were the rich, ever-changing sounds of the temple grounds. Sounds mostly of the males of various species, quite ironically, tempt females to mate with them, in a place where we were told on multiple occasions, that sex – at least human sex – is definitely off of the agenda. One can hear the nonchalant croaking of frogs which occupy the large ceramic basins where lily pads provide safe cover from the elements. And occasionally, the distant bleating of a superannuated scooter whose misfiring engine should’ve been sold for scrap a long time ago.


A wood pigeon used by birds and local semi-stray dogs alike, teeming with tadpoles.

By far the most distinctive noise of the whole place, though, was that of the Asian Koel. It looks like a slightly more despicable version of the Common Raven (crow) found across the Northern Hemisphere. The kind you might find eaten worms in your garden, stealing buttons of your favourite shirt or hatching a plan to undermine the foundations of your species democracy on Youtube. Despicable mostly because of its blood-red eyes and a curved beige beak. It sounds a bit like a slowed down car alarm or insecure child calling his mother because he got lost in his own bedroom. The bird releases up to around 15 timorous chirps in one go before fluttering off unconvincingly to ornament a steeple or ancient tree branch or another.

For a noise which sounds like an incompetent, chronically depressed frozen foods store manager locked in his own walk-in refrigerator - a monotonous help, help, help! – cry, it sure is loud. Each cry could be likened to some insecure plea for reassurance – “Do you love me?”, “Do my feathers make me look fat?” “Am I being too noisy?” No, little pea fly, you’re perfect just the way you are. In a stupor, next to the stupa, on many an occasion, other birdsong became anthropomorphised in the drowsy fog of endless meditation in the afternoon heat. Catchy ditties recirculated in messy streams of thought as birdsong awoke me from my stupefaction. “What’re you doing? What’re you doing? What’re you doing?” sang a bird, the upwardly inflective interrogative recapitulating in my head. “Meditating! Meditating Meditating!” the hazy half-light of my subconscious replied before realising it was the product of another reality of some sorts and allowing my conscious mind to take the reins and correctly identify the feeling of shards of broken glass in my lower back.

Back to Along. Phra Ajahn Along isn’t his actual name. Part of his actual name is Along (spelt only as I’ve heard it spoken, not as it’s probably written). Phra means ‘monk’ and Ajahn means ‘teacher’. Monk Teacher Along and his handsome yet deeply sullen hairless head would peer at you inside the beautified walls of the teacher’s office, along with Phra Ajahn Supan, the bigwig of the whole wat. Along very rarely smiled, certainly never spontaneously, and usually, it’s only ever a sort of proto-smile released when he seemed content with the profundity of wisdom he was conveying on the uneducated masses, painstakingly, 1 at a time, for 3 hours every day. Along had a habit of looking upon you, walleyed, without a flicker of emotion, his perfectly smooth, timeless skin giving no indication of age (although I’d guess he was in his late 20’s).

The Chosen One, The Golden Child, awaiting his turn on the throne, operated according to different rules of human interaction. Groups of males and females were scheduled to attend meetings from 3 pm or 4 pm each day and would wait, in groups, in silence, in comfortable antique chairs which were in stark contrast to the cheap, plastic read ones omnipresent around the wat. Those waiting would have no choice but to listen in on the progress, or lack thereof, of one's fellow meditators, and Along would have no choice but to recycle a reliable reservoir of sagacious parables and other tidbits of wisdom to the countless masses whose faces had merged into an unidentifiable hopeless blur of clueless foreigners seeking enlightenment.

Our protagonist Phra Ajahn Along sat up high, his big fascinating head atop his marginally less fascinating, diminutive, orange robe-covered body, regally, resplendently, like Henry VI about to execute one of his wives, on a high perch overlooking you, as you kneeled, uncomfortably with your thighs horizontal, sitting back on your own heels. By the time Along got into the meat and potatoes of his circumspection, a tsunami of liquid magma was circulating scalding daggers in my knees which served only as a minor distraction to the sensation of one’s toes splitting off from the top of the foot at their seams. The act of prostration, bowing 3 times both to Lord Buddha and then to Phra Ajahn Along was very much welcomed not as a cathartic form of worship but as a temporary reprieve to the knee-snapping discomfort.

 Although others seemed to strike up a more fruitful relationship with Along, he was a divisive character whose talking style leaned toward the repetitive “you have a hand, look at it, it is real…,” and who, perhaps quite understandably, seemed bored to be delivering variants of the same message 3 hours per day every day, to an audience of travellers unfamiliar with the nuances of his faith. When I told Along about my back pain, he said pain is just another object of mind. When I told Suphan, he told me that pain is an object of mind. Somehow this made the pain worse.

Along told me that if somebody came to try and kill him, he wouldn’t resist, he would accept his fate, as everything is as it should be. He also told me, when I asked, that he wasn’t attached to anything, and although he wouldn’t admit it, he seemed really attached to this whole Buddhism thing. He then told me to look at his hand and fell asleep. Along was ardent, steadfast and dutiful in his beliefs and actions, and he, at times, especially when referencing the wisdom of Lord Buddha, reminded me of any religious ideologue. Being in conversation with Along, as well as the acerbic, straight-talking nun at the front desk, was a reality check that this place isn’t a hippy-dippy place to meander through the curious crevices of consciousness, but another dogmatic religion like Christianity, Islam or any other you’d care to name.

At the same time, somebody acting entirely in accordance with his beliefs wasn’t to be dismissed or shirked at, belittled or made fun of. I often left Along’s office not inspired by the sagacity of his word or the grace of his character but by a profound sense of human potential given the prerequisite beliefs. What else could make a clearly exhausted man wake up at 4 am every morning, having meditated all the previous morning noon and night, to lead a bunch of clueless beginners, who don’t even understand a word of the Pali language that the prayers are conducted in, and not want to just chuck it all in and renounce religion right then and there?

Phra Ajahn Suphan (taken from the Wat Ram Poeng Facebook page)
His line manager (although I don’t think they call it that) was Suphan who was more visible around the temple. His smiling face adorned the temple’s only billboard where he could be seen cutting a monk’s hair. He could often be heard over the temple’s various loudspeakers, especially on special occasions like the oft-occurring ‘Buddha day’ (on each half moon, full moon, new moon, three-quarter moon, cheese moon, Keith Moon and chocolate gateaux moon), where he’d give murmuring, chuckle-laden speeches, holding the microphone a little too close to his face, like an affable granddad with a few too many white wines in him, embarrassed but chipper about forgetting the trivial details of whose house he was actually in. He gave the impression that he was enjoying what he was saying more than his audience, at least more than his English-speaking audience who didn’t have a clue what he was saying, except on the rare few occasions when in his dharma talks, before the Buddha day ceremony in the large ordination hall, he brought up in asynchronous subjects of artificial intelligence and the novel Coronavirus in adjacent breaths.

More constructive conversations could be found in talking to a lowlier, yet more avuncular and altogether more approachable monk such as Phra Sookido, who was chatty and held a smile which warmed one’s cockles and could always, be found sweeping in the early afternoons near the library. Wisdom could be found in these smaller moments, like the eccentric ramblings of a bantamweight monk, name unknown, who on the night before our release accosted us with a large kitchen knife he was using to deracinate weeds from the potted garden plants. The little excitable fellow raised his arms to the heavens, gesticulating with great energy as he shimmied from one way to the next, and crouched down holding his head – and knife – aloft, in his own charismatic way, like an excitable golem as he regaled us with stories of the best ways to live a humble life.

It’s no wonder two other meditators who had been on the walk with us and didn’t realise the monk was holding an audience with us until they were halfway towards the stupa, thought we were being apprehended for making too much noise. “Don’t cry before you hurt,” the monk said, compelling us not to overthink problems until there is one. “Knowing, knowing, knowing,” he repeated, bouncing up and down on his toes, in between chaotic darts, offering us advice on how to ground ourselves if we’re ever feeling detached or ungrounded. These were invaluable insights, more than I ever got from Suphan or Along, but which perhaps didn’t require the full 90-minute operetta that we felt obliged to kindly accept as monastery guests.

The beautiful soul, Machee Suli
The food was fantastic if samey, vegetarian-friendly. The accommodation scarce and the men’s rooms like petite alpine chalets from the outside and spartan bivouac huts on the inside. They were still better than the female accommodation located behind the food waste bins next to the temple’s kitchen. Women had fewer privileges than men, something which made itself apparent often. Women entered the Buddha Day ceremonies after the men, they weren’t allowed on the first step of the stupa, and they sat with the masses of female Thai visitors to the temple, whereas men got their own private area near the monks. This impression crystallised most clearly when on the third day Machee Suli (‘Machee’ meaning Nun), a selfless, kindly nun on the front desk who was later to be replaced by her evil doppelganger, a cold, indifferent nun, informed us that we could attend a meeting with a returning female teacher if we wished.

As I entered the teacher’s office to meet Phra Ajarn Agayani, returning after a long-standing back injury, I was instead met by Along, sweeping the outskirts of the teacher’s office. Along informed me that this wasn’t where she was and that I should ask Machee Suli in the Foreign Meditator’s Office. Agayani’s office had no nagas, balustrades, double tired roofs, pagodas or balconies. It was a small outhouse near the kitchen. By no means squalid, it was nice enough with a small waiting area partitioned off from the well-decorated and homely interior of the room by a sliding door. But sitting with Agayani, you got the sense of being in your favourite aunt’s living room chattering about one’s ailments, rather than knelt rigidly in the main office, shouldering the burden of the wisdom of the ages being passed down by a supercilious monk, only to be received by your thin, undeserving wrists and svelte shoulders.

Many students transferred to Agayani’s morning session in the shed rather than visiting Suphan’s stately drawing room in the afternoons. Although, being a product of the monastery and that particular flavour of traditional Theravada Buddhism, I was able to speak to Agayani, to the eternal frustration of those waiting outside the office partition, for a substantial period, especially about the chronic back pain which had plagued her for many years, but which she’d overcome despite doctor’s advice for surgery and strong medication, using the power of mind. Words I was especially keen to hear given my own, relatively trivial, back problems on retreat. “The pain is good. You need pain,” she said magnanimously, imploring me to go deeper in the exploration of negative sensation I was experiencing. Her shaven head and kind black button-like eyes emanated kindness, like a cosy puppet in an Oliver Postgate animation. She surpassed, in this sense, the temple’s patriarchs, both Ajahn’s amiable articulations and Along’s austere astringency.

Your monkey mind, despite being asked to take a break from active duty looks for things to do in any event. Just like a police officer caught up in a media furore and put on indefinite paid leave but who can’t help spending his downtime pruning the wife’s rhododendrons to within an inch of their bulbs. The monkey mind is like a wild, never-before ridden rollercoaster, which takes you unknown terrain at unpredictable speeds and you’re not sure when it’ll actually return. And there are no height restrictions or seat belts.

Monkey mind reprieve: placing a bouquet on the stupa during a Buddha Day ceremony
A thought might arise about a hobby of mine, perhaps about a certain move in Brazilian jiu-jitsu. This then soon becomes an extravagant animated Spike Jonze short where the protagonist, me, is winning regional competitions and donating the prize money to charity, a selfless hero in a movie only ever played once to its maker. The flickering hint of a thought about my back pain then arises shortly afterwards, and the rollercoaster is soon zipping and whirling through dense forest overgrowth as I contemplate a life of disability, unable to ever properly meditate again. Another thought then arises: a fleeting positive disposition toward a fellow meditator, and soon the thought-coaster is whizzing past alpine slopes as the monkey, calculator in hand, autistically tabulates all of the meditator’s good and bad traits, and analyses every – entirely silent – proto-interaction that we’ve ever had. What a crazy, unnecessary, sadistic ride. This is why Agayani was reported to have said that 15 minutes of talking is equivalent to one hour’s lost meditation: it revs the rollercoaster’s engine and tantalises its thrusters. The monkey mind is suspended with full-pay only to be promised a promotion and given a tour of head office.

The monkey, strapped tightly into The Runaway Train fixated on an appealing young lady on the first few days of the experiment in human psychology before it found out – on its entrepreneurial travels - that the lady in question was, in fact, dating one of the camps blabbermouths, of which there were two, an American she met at a previous retreat and whose sinusitis – presumably – was responsible for the grating series of grunt, snorts and coughs he unceremoniously bestowed upon his meditation mates. Some things such as ticks brought about through medical conditions cannot be helped and should not be criticised, although other things, such as his fondness for humming 1970’s Soul anthem “Isn’t She Lovely” by Stevie Wonder, could have been helped and can rightly be open to censure.
A meditation hotspot, opposite the stupa

By day 6 or 7 I was looking out for the new object of my thinking brain’s affections, an Australian girl never far from the barrel of a Chinese guy’s shutter lens, a fellow meditator with a penchant for falling asleep during meditation – and, along with his compatriot with which he was sailing the word it transpired, in a 40-foot Dutch sailing boat, a thoroughly lovely, dare I say inspiring, guy.

My mind began to wonder the Mediterranean-looking lady was sitting at lunch, it found itself content when it noticed she was meditating in close proximity around the stupa and found itself pondering where the hell she was when she wasn’t. Meditating, she appeared like a bronzed statue, the evening sun lighting up her olive skin like Helen of Troy, and the slight upturning of her chin and lips, adding to the elegance, ease and grace at which she appeared to be excelling in the art. She was majestic and I –or at least the overthinking part of my primitive monkey brain – was captivated.

This is why I marked it as a minor success when on the second Buddha day ceremony, when we were all required to gather at the Foreign Meditation Office brandishing a small selection box of artificial flowers, candles; I caught her attention passing by and engaged her in a brief, frivolous chat. And then on Day 10, we found ourselves having a sit-down chat in the female dining area after the ‘closing ceremony’ when everyone had forgotten they were on a silent meditation retreat and were gossiping about all and sundry. Imagine how I was further counting my lucky stars when on Day 11, strapped into our backpacks, we found ourselves half a mile down the road in an exuberant garden café. The monkey mind found her to be an arresting, bewitching, Mediterranean beauty. The intellect found her to be perspicacious, elegant, politically engaged wonder. The gut listened but couldn’t do much for all the butterflies, and the heart, tugged as it was, had no riposte to any of it.

Ecclesiastical philosophy has something to teach us here. No matter how much of the rights and wrongs, laws of logic and rationality that you try to engage with, no matter how much you might fight against some urge such as the fleeting and strong one of romantic love, which itself arises unexplainably from the belly of infinity, sometimes you just find yourself outside a nightclub, both of you in tears, desperately trying to explain away the failure of human connection.
"We're all connected" 2 Chinese fellows, a Russian and an Aussie. Coffee shop friends.
For all of one’s triumphs, achievements, accolades, awards, good-looks or financial prosperity, we’re all highly imperfect human beings trying to make sense of ourselves in an indifferent cosmos. And whether we’re in the presence of a beautiful temple, a heavily vandalised London bus or weeping outside a Thai night club, tired and emotional in the early hours of the morning, through connection, or failed attempts at it, we’re all just trying our best. “I have a gift for you,” said Tie one of the Chinese guys sailing the world on his boat, as he handed me a yellow candle in that café. “We’re all connected, but this when if you ever feel like we’re not,” he said with a benevolent gaze, loading our bags into our taxi and waving us into the distance. “Perhaps we can sail together one day,”. Yes my friend, perhaps we will.

I plan to return to Wat Ram Poeng if I haven't been blacklisted as a chatterbox. The insights are too profound, the grounds too scenic, the people too inspiring. It’s a majestic place that I’d recommend to anyone and everyone, even those without an interest in meditation if only to leave after 2 days after having experienced one of the surrealist, Lynchian experiences of their lives. You might fall in love with meditation anyway. Or like me, fall in love. You might even learn to love people generally, their journeys, terrible failures and riveting highs, as well as those of your own.

And whether you find yourself next time in some terrible state of affairs, vandalising a bus, staring at one’s feet or sailing the world in a Dutch sailing boat, just remember that it’s all just happening, whether you like it or not. “It’s just a ride,” insisted Bill Hicks convincingly, so you might as well pay attention to what it feels like to be on the ride, as long as you are, because one day you’ll be kindly asked to get off. It’s better then, to see the impermanent, chaotic swirl of an unpredictable cosmos with wide eyes open than peer at it through half-closed lids with eyes wide shut, ready with the most finely attuned ears and slowest moving feet you can summon. Because this bird song, this back pain, this gruelling teacher’s meeting, this frog's mating call, this mock meat meal, this bivouac hut, this hand, this love, this heartbreak, this life, is all there ever is.

Namaste.